Teste da Porton
The "Teste da Porton" of Verona: Silent Guardians of the City
Walking through the streets of Verona, the most detail-oriented tourists may notice some unusual figures placed on the keystones of the city's buildings. These heads carved in stone, known as "teste da porton", are among the most intriguing and lesser known features of the city. They are found mainly on late Renaissance and Baroque buildings, recalling the rich decorations of Roman arches, introduced to Verona by the great architect Michele Sanmicheli. These structural elements are not only architectural embellishments but also carry superstition and aesthetic value.
The teste da porton depict human or animal protomes; some appear serene and composed, while others are grotesque or humorous. Their origins lie in ancient amulets widespread in Mediterranean cultures. In the Roman world they appear in the form of "oscilla" (swinging objects with sculpted faces or masks).
They are also found in Venice, where they are called mascaroni, very common on the façades of churches and bell towers, they served mainly an apotropaic function, warding off evil—just as in Verona—protecting houses and dwellings from misfortune.
These silent stone guardians were placed right at the entrance of the home, letting nothing escape their gaze; in this sense, they protected houses from dark and threatening forces with frightening grimaces or monstrous features—half human and half beast.
Verona boasts an extensive repertoire of teste da porton, from the elegant male and female figures symbolizing the Four Seasons on Palazzo Realdi Monga to the mocking mask in Via Arcidiacono Pacifico.
In some cases, a testa da porton represents the values of a family; they reproduce the family coat of arms and occupy a prominent position on the façade, becoming a sublte form of communication. Today these architectural decorations remain a charming and engaging features of Verona's urban fabric and invite us to imagine the interesting stories hidden behind the palaces.
In Verona there are so many teste da porton, and this expression has also taken on another meaning: it is used to refer to a dull, stubborn person who refuses to understand what they are being told…
Book a walking tour in Verona to discover these intriguing details!